Italy Challenges 'Italian-Sounding' Sauces in EU Parliament

Italy's agriculture minister, Francesco Lollobrigida, has recently expressed his outrage over the presence of pasta sauces in the European Parliament's supermarket that he describes as "Italian-sounding." This incident has sparked calls for an immediate investigation into the matter.

Lollobrigida, who is a member of Giorgia Meloni's Brothers of Italy party, highlighted a specific carbonara sauce that features “Italiaanse pancetta.” Traditionally, the authentic Roman carbonara is made with guanciale, a type of cured pork cheek, not pancetta. He also pointed out a tomato sauce labeled with “oignons de Calabria,” referring to onions from the Calabria region. He took to Facebook to voice his frustration, stating, “Ignoring the pancetta in carbonara... all these products represent the worst of ‘Italian sounding.’”

In his social media post, Lollobrigida declared it "unacceptable" for these products to be available in the EU Parliament's supermarket and urged for an immediate investigation into their sale.

Italy has long been at the forefront of efforts to combat the proliferation of products that falsely present themselves as Italian. Known as “Italian-sounding” goods, these items often mislead consumers into believing they are authentic Italian products when they are not.

Under European Union regulations, a food product can be deemed misleading if its labeling inaccurately represents its true country of origin. Reports from Brussels indicate that while these sauces do contain Italian ingredients, they do not explicitly claim to be made in Italy.

The Guardian has reached out to Delhaize for a comment regarding this controversy, but no response has yet been received.

This incident unfolds as Italy eagerly anticipates the outcome of its application to have its cuisine recognized on UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list. A decision on this application is expected in early December, which could further bolster Italy’s efforts to protect its culinary identity.

Italy's largest agribusiness association, Coldiretti, has reported alarming statistics regarding the economic impact of counterfeit Italian products, claiming that such fraud costs the nation an estimated €120 billion (£106 billion) each year. Coldiretti stated, “Paradoxically, the biggest counterfeiters of Italian excellence are industrialized countries.”

Coldiretti is not just focused on “Italian-sounding” products; it also actively campaigns against the use of mafia-related terms in food and drink marketing globally. This includes products like Cosa Nostra whisky and Chilli Mafia hot sauces, which the association argues further tarnish Italy's reputation.

The outcry from Italy’s agriculture minister reflects a deeper concern about the preservation of Italian culinary tradition and authenticity in a global marketplace saturated with imitation products. As Italy awaits the outcome of its UNESCO application, the issue of “Italian-sounding” products remains a significant challenge for the nation. The fight against misleading labels and counterfeit Italian goods is not just about protecting a brand; it is about safeguarding a cultural heritage that has been cherished for generations.